Growing Roses - Your
Foolproof Guide to Rose Care and How to Grow Roses
Growing roses completes
and our guide will
show you how to grow roses successfully. We will look at rose planting,
rose care, rose types and rose pruning and rose cuttings.
There are so many kinds from climbing
to highly fragrant
great hybrid perpetuals
plants for the shrubbery in shrubbery
Many people feel that there is a mystery to
roses, or that they are difficult to grow. They aren't, but you do need
to make sure that the roses that you choose to grow are the right type
for your needs.
Growing Roses and Rose Care
To get the best results with roses, they should be placed in a bed by
themselves, where they can be tilled and pruned and well taken care of,
as other flower-garden plants are. The ordinary garden roses should
rarely be grown in mixed borders of shrubbery. To get the best results
for a glorious show; make beds of one variety and color rather than to
mix them with several varieties and several colors.
If you want to grow roses in mixed shrubbery borders, then the single
and informal types should be chosen. The best of all these is Rosa
Growing roses like the Rosa rugosa not only
flowers through the greater
part of the season, but it also has very interesting foliage and a
Even without the flowers, it has an attractive mass of
foliage. The foliage is not attacked by insects or fungi, but remains
green and glossy throughout the year.
The fruit, or rose hips
very large and showy, and persist on bushes well through the winter.
Some of the wild roses
also excellent for mixing into foliage
masses, but, as a rule, their foliage characteristics are rather weak,
and they are liable to be attacked by thrips.
Growing Roses - Different Classes and Types
There are many classes of roses and different classes, and when growing
roses of different types and class, they require different
treatment. Some of them, such as the teas and hybrid perpetuals bloom
from new canes; while the rugosa, the Austrian, Harrison's yellow,
sweet briers, and some others are bushes do not renew themselves each
year from the crown or bases of the canes.
Outdoor roses may be divided into two groups so far as their blooming
habit is involved:
continuous or intermittent bloomers, such as the hybrid
perpetuals (blooming chiefly in June), bourbons, tea, rugosa, the teas
and hybrid teas being the most continuous in bloom;
those that bloom once only, in summer, as Austrian, Ayrshire,
sweet briers, prairie, Cherokee, Banksian, Provence, most moss roses,
damask, multi flora, polyantha, and memorial (Wichuraiana). "Perpetual"
or recurrent-blooming races have been developed in the Ayrshire, moss,
polyantha, and others.
Where to Plant Roses
When growing roses,
grow well in a sunny position, a dry
atmosphere and hot
summers are sometimes trying on the flowers, as are severe wintry winds
on the plants. While, therefore, it is never advisable to plant roses
near large trees, or where they will be overshadowed by buildings or
surrounding shrubbery, some shade during the heat of the day will be a
benefit. If you live in the tropics give your roses 6 hours of sunshine
a day, and allow for some shade. This will also prevent your blooms
The best position for
planting roses is on an eastern or northern
slope, and where fences or other objects will break the
force of strong
winds, in those area where such winds prevail.
When growing roses don't expect them to last forever. Roses should be
carefully taken up every four or five years, tops and
roots cut in, and then reset, either in a new place or in the old,
after enriching the soil with a fresh supply of manure, and deeply
spading it over. In Holland, roses are allowed to stand
years. They are then taken out and their places filled with young
Soil and Planting for Roses
roses cannot take place in any type of soil in order to get the best
best soil for roses is a deep and rich clay loam, although any ordinary
soil will do, provided it is well manured.
Cow manure is strong and
lasting, and has no heating effect. It will cause no damage, even if
not rotted. Horse manure, however, should be well rotted before mixing
it with the soil.
The manure may be mixed in the soil at the rate of
one part in four. If well rotted, however, more will not do any damage,
as the soil can scarcely be made too rich, especially for the
ever-blooming (hybrid tea) roses. Care should be taken to mix the
manure thoroughly with the earth, and not to plant the roses against
In rose planting, care must be taken to avoid exposing the roots to the
drying of sun and air. If dormant field-grown rose plants have been
purchased, all broken and bruised roots will need to be cut off
smoothly and squarely. The tops also will need cutting back. The cut
should always be made just above a bud, preferably on the outer side of
Strong-growing roses may be cut back one-fourth or one-half,
according as they have good or bad roots. Weaker-growing kinds, as most
of the ever-blooming roses, should be cut back most severely. In both
cases it is well to remove the weak growth first. Plants set out from
pots will usually not need cutting back.
Growing Roses of
Different Types and When to Plant
especially the strong field-grown plants, should be set in
the early fall if practical. It is good to get them out just as soon as
they have shed their foliage. If not then, they may be planted in the
the best season for growing roses. It is advisable to plant roses out
as early as the ground is
enough, and before the buds have started to grow. Dormant pot-plants
may also be set out early, but they should be perfectly inactive.
Setting them out early in this condition is preferable to waiting till
they are in foliage and full bloom, as is so often required by buyers.
Growing pot-plants may be planted any time in spring after danger of
frost is past, or even during the summer, if they are watered and
shaded for a few days.
should be set about as deep as they stood
previously, excepting budded or grafted plants, which should be set so
that the union of the stock and graft will be 2 to 4 inches below the
surface of the ground. Plants from pots may also be set an inch deeper
than they stood in the pots. The soil should be in a friable condition.
Roses should have the soil compact immediately about their roots; but
we should distinguish between planting roses and setting fence posts.
The dryer the soil the more firmly it may be pressed.
As a general rule, it may be said that roses on their own roots will
prove more satisfactory for the general run of planters than budded
On own-rooted stock,
the suckers or shoots from below the surface of
the soil will be of the same kind, whereas with budded roses there is
danger of the stock (usually Manetti or dog rose) starting to grow and,
not being discovered, outgrowing the bud, taking possession, and
finally killing out the weaker growth. Still, if the plants are set
deep enough to prevent adventitious buds of the stock from starting and
the grower is alert, this difficulty is reduced to a minimum. There is
no question but that finer roses may be grown than from plants on their
own roots, withstanding the heat of the summer, if the grower takes the
Step 1. Unwrap
the rose from the polythene bag, check the root system, then plunge the
roots into a bucket of water for about 30 minutes. Add 10 ml seaweed
solution to the water.
Dig a hole twice the width of the root system, but only the
depth of the root ball. Add some compost and well rotted manure into
the soil that you removed from the hole. Mix well to prevent the manure
from burning the roots.
Check the planting depth by standing the rose in the hole. Lay a stake
across the top of the hole. The graft union should be just above the
soil surface and level with the stake.
the rose out of the hole, adjust the level of the soil if necessary and
make a mound of earth in the base of the hole. Stand the rose on top of
the mound. Make sure that there are no air pockets around the roots.
Back-fill the hole carefully with the soil that was removed from the
hole. Firm the soil around the roots as you go. Roses like compacted
soil and don't do well in loose soil at all.
Water the rose well, adding more soil afterwards if necessary. Scatter
some slow-release rose food around the surface and cover with
a layer of organic mulch. Don't allow it to build up against the trunk
as this will encourage disease.
Growing Roses - Rose
For a good program for
rose care, 2 weeks after you have planted your
roses it is time to start feeding
them. Start with a handful or two of blood and bone and dig in lightly.
Follow this up again in winter after pruning.
You can also give your
roses an additional feed in early summer. A good feed for roses is 10
cups of blood and bone to 1 cup sulphate of potash. Apply to your roses
every 6 weeks in the summer. You will get bigger blooms, more colorful
blooms and healthier plants.
If you wish, you can also foliar feed your roses in the summer by
spraying the leaves with a liquid
as fish or seaweed every 2
Roses are heavy feeders, and if you don't feed your roses on a regular
basis, the blooms will not be as you had hoped.
Lifestyles Tip: Old banana skins can do wonders for
the quality of your roses if they are cut up and placed into the soil,
just around the surface, around the roots. Make sure that you place the
banana skins, with the inside of the peel facing down.
Banana skins are packed with
phosphates, sodium, magnesium, silica, potassium, sulfur and calcium.
Many rose growers say that burying
meat fat around the roots will also give stunning blooms although I
cannot say whether that works or not. However, I can tell you that
roses and parsley are great companion plants as the parsley improves
both the health of the rose plants and improves the scent of the blooms.
Growing Roses and Watering
You will be surprised
roses just how thirsty they get. Roses need frequent soakings around
the root zone during dry weather
but the foliage should not be sprayed as this could encourage black
spot. Watering in hot weather should be a thorough watering at least 3
times a week, or every day in very hot weather.
Growing Roses - Rose
the busy time for growing roses. Now only is it the time for
planting, it is also the time for rose pruning.
Wear some good garden gloves as the thorns can be vicious. When pruning
roses remove any old, woody or dead material, along with any spindly
growth. With a pair of sharp secateurs simply shorten most of the
growth to just under a meter. Removing any dead wood at the base of the
bush will expose any borers or problems. Try to leave younger branches
that are strong and vigorous a little longer, and shorten older wood.
In general, they rule of thumb is to remove growth from the center of
the plant so that it forms an open, uncluttered vase-like shape that
light and air can easily penetrate. Cut just above an outward facing
bud, as this encourages growth outwards.
You can also lightly prune during the summer months. Here cut flowering
stems back to the second leaf bud up from the stem. Trim the bush
occasionally to keep it looking tidy. Remove suckers sprouting from the
rootstock (below the graft) by tearing or wrenching, rather than
cutting, so that they are completely removed.
Growing Roses from
Growing roses from
cuttings is possible, but there are some varieties
that do not produce a strong rooting system. There are 2 ways in which
to take cuttings:
hardwood cuttings can be taken just before they lose their leaves.
Cuttings should be taken from strong shoots that are about 15 - 20 cm
in length. Remove all the lower buds with a knife leaving only 3-4 buds
at the top. Dig a narrow trench about 20 cm deep and place about 2 cm
of coarse sand in the bottom. Dip the bottom end into pure honey and
then place the cuttings at a slant into the soil and cover up with the
soil so that about 3-4 cm of the cutting appears above the
soil. Firm the soil in and water well. By spring they should have
formed a good root system and can then be planted out in the following
The other method
of growing roses from cuttings is to take a soft-tip cutting.
These are taken in spring.
Select a stem that is young and
brittle and will easily snap of made to. Take these cuttings 7 cm in
length with 3-4 buds. Trim the base with a sharp knife and remove all
the lower leaves. Dip the end of the cutting into
pure honey and then place in a container of coarse sand, perlite or
some other sterile growing medium. Water well and make sure that some
of the sand is above the buds that were left on the cutting. After 3-6
weeks new roots should have formed. Move to a new pot filled with a
rich compost mix. Plant and cover plant with a plastic bag to
encourage humidity and growth. Plant out the following spring.
Growing Roses - Pest and
Roses will suffer from
a number of diseases and pests at some stage of their life. So
roses, always be on the look out for signs.
Roses will get
black spot from time to time, as well as from thrips
, mealy bugs
rose-eating bests like the chafer
red spider mite
insects by either using predatory
, such as lady bugs, or you can use natural
pesticides and insecticides
White oil is also very
good in getting
rid of rose scale.
you can see, growing roses is not that difficult as long as care and a
set program for water, feeding and pruning take place.
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