
Perhaps many of you have already tried your hand at planting window boxes and even porch boxes and had the same dismal results. The problem is that 99 times out of 100 failure with window-boxes is due to just one thing: People let their plants die simply because they do not give them enough water. Because the plants are in a container they dry out far quicker than if the plants were in the ground.
It is not enough to just wet the surface of the soil, thinking that there is enough moisture below. What is happening is that only the first inch or two is wet, and the roots system below is in fact very dry with no water at all. This explains why the plants start off well because while the plants are young and small their roots are close to the surface, and as long as they remain in that condition they grow well enough, but as soon as they attempt to send their roots down, as all plants do, after the earlier stages of growth—they find no moisture, and in a short time they die.
There is no danger of overwatering, for all surplus water will run off through the holes in the box, provided for drainage. Therefore when planting window boxes make sure that you water them very well and give them a thorough soaking everyday. If you do, you will find that you will have the success you have been looking for.
You can use almost
any kind of plant when planting window boxes. Drooping plants are nice
to have as they trail over the sides of the
box, and add that touch of grace which is characteristic of all
vines. Plants that
bloom freely throughout the season should be
chosen in preference to shy and short-season bloomers. Geraniums,
Petunias, Verbenas, Fuchsias, Salvias, Heliotropes, Paris Daisies — all
these are excellent.
When planting widow boxes you can also use vines. Vines that will grow well are Glechoma, green, with yellow variegation—Vinca Harrisonii, also green and yellow, Moneywort, German Ivy, Tradescantia, Thunbergia, and Othonna. A combination of plants with richly-colored foliage is especially nice for boxes on the porch or veranda, where showiness is what you want. In these boxes larger plants can be used than one would plant at the window. Here is where Cannas and Caladiums will be found very effective.
Ferns, like the Boston and Pierson varieties, are excellent for planting window boxes that don't get a lot of sun because of their graceful drooping and spreading habit. They combine well with pink-and-white Fuchsias, rose-colored Ivy Geraniums, and the white Paris Daisy. Petunias—the single sorts only—are also good, because they bloom freely and constantly, and have enough of the droop in them to make them as useful in covering the sides of the box as they are in spreading over its surface.
A foot in width, a foot in depth, and the length of the window frame to which it is to be attached is a good size for the average window box. Great care must be taken to see that it is securely fastened to the frame, and that it is given a strong support, for the amount of earth it will contain will be of considerable weight when well saturated with water.
Veranda or Porch boxes, in which larger plants are to be used, should be considerably deeper and wider than the ordinary window box. Any size that you want to have should be large enough to hold a sufficient amount of soil to grow whatever plants you want to use. If your plants grow as they ought to no one can tell, by midsummer, whether your box cost ten dollars or ten cents. If it is of wood, give it a coat of some neutral-colored paint before you fill it.
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Late Summer - Winter Window Boxes; What to Plant?
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I enjoy your website - my first visit. I live in NYS and would like to plant something in the window boxes of the house I just moved into, preferably something ...
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