of Common Garden Pests, Bugs and Natural Remedy Solutions
common garden pests and garden bugs with our insect pictures. Know
their life-cycles, how to identify insects that are harmful to your
plants, and how to use organic and natural pesticides to get rid of
garden pests when growing vegetables
It is only possible to mention a few of the common garden bugs and
pests, and I
begin with one of the most frequent and troublesome of plant enemies.
When bad weather
conditions prevail, your garden will often be invaded by all types of
garden bugs and insects. The keen, dry east wind that so
fruit crops is
usually followed by visitations of fly and maggot, which is no fault of
our own. However, if we neglect watering our plants then we are to
Good cultivation not only
results in strong and healthy plants,
but it is often the means of preventing the plants
from falling under the attacks of garden pests such as aphids
, mealy bug
, spider mites
against which the gardener has to fight an unceasing battle.
Insects are among the
frailest of living creatures and they die at a
touch. As they breathe through the pores of the skin, water alone—the
promoter of life and cleanliness—is death to them; and can easily be
killed when oil is added to the water or even an active
poison, such as tobacco, or a substance that clings to them and stops
the process of breathing, washing-up soap, and
the numerous other preparations that are specially made to get rid
of garden pests.
The Life-Cycle of Common Garden Pests
The various life-cycle
stages through which the larger insects pass place them
within our grasp and vision at some period of their existence.
float beyond the reach of harm, but in the caterpillar or the chrysalis
state it can be dealt with effectively. Again, we may be powerless to
destroy the Chafer grubs
they feed or hibernate beneath the soil,
their perfect state as Cockchafers
or Rose Chafers
many may be
down during quiet evenings, and others can be shaken from roses at dawn
A knowledge of the life-history of garden pests and insects
will result in knowing what is to be done and the right time for doing
it, so that
often by simple treatment they may be destroyed. Neem
is a fantastic organic pest control
interrupts the sexual reproductive cyle of insects that results in
getting rid of them completely.
Solutions with Organic
Pesticides to Get Rid of Common Garden
Make a simple spray
container for your organic pesticide by reusing one of your household
detergent sprayers. Every general
washing should be followed by another at an interval of
from a week to a fortnight, because, although the first operation may
kill every insect, there will be many living eggs left, and these renew
the race, and very soon bring the plants into as bad a state as ever,
unless they get the happy dispatch that their parents
pest control methods for a complete list of
sprays and recipes using natural and organic ingredients.
Feeding your Common Garden Pests
It may sound odd, but
cases it will be more economical to feed certain of your garden pests
than to destroy them;
and, as a rule, feeding them does not add to their numbers, in the
same or any future season, for insect life is so strangely dependent on
certain conditions of temperature, etc, that if the season is not
favorable to a particular kind it will be scarce, no matter how
plentiful it may have been in a previous year.
In the case of the Turnip
Fly, feeding is frequently the cheapest and surest way of
crop. It is customary with Dahlia growers, and, indeed, with the
of florists' flowers generally, to sow lettuces where the flowers are
be planted, in other words - inter-cropping, for so long as lettuces
on the spot slugs and snails
will prefer them to other food.
As the lettuces themselves
purpose of traps, the snails and slugs congregated about them may,
towards evening, be caught and destroyed. Basically, this is known as
planting, which I am a
big fan of, because I know it
Pests and Aphids
in some form or other are the
persistent and annoying of
plant garden pests.
Fly is the
the softer kinds of
vegetation, and the Blue and the Black Fly are common plagues of
the orchard. Both my cause distortion and
possibly spread virus infections as they feed.
The tender body of the aphid is instantly
affected by conditions unfavorable to its life, and it is therefore
easily killed; but its marvelous power of reproduction makes its
extinction impossible, for in every instance a few escape, and very
re-establish their race.
Remedy for Aphids:
Two methods of getting rid
of aphids are popular. One of
course, which is not organic in principle, but effective nevertheless
is using tobacco steeped in water.
The other remedy is to use
one of the many recipes given on
pesticides page and for
house plants it is recommended that
the plants are totally submerged in the preparations.
Take a plant in
the right hand and spread
the fingers of the left hand over the surface of the soil to prevent
the plant and soil from tipping out; then turn the plant over and
plunge the foliage in the liquid,
moving it up and down briskly two or three times. If this is not
practicable spray the plants, taking care to wet the leaves
sides and give the plant a thorough drenching. On the following day
spray with pure soft water.
Rose trees may generally
be cleansed of fly by means of a
strong garden hose using pure water only, the essential point being to
water on the trees with some amount of force for several evenings in
succession whenever the fly threatens to obtain the upper-hand.
However, also spraying your roses with white oil afterwards is also
Soft soap dissolved in
water makes a cheap and effectual wash
for eliminating all kinds of aphids, and to these ingredients quassia
will also help. One pound of soft soap will be enough for ten
gallons of water, into which stir the extract obtained by boiling one
pound of quassia chips in water. Pot plants can be dipped in it as
already advised, or the solution may be applied by means of the spray
On the following day the plants should be cleansed with pure soft water.
can also introduce natural predators to aphids such as ladybirds also
known as ladybugs. Stores now sell these by the 1000s so that they can
be released into your garden. Buy ladybugs or ladybirds here.
Pests and the Bean Aphid
also known as the Bean
Plant Louse, or Black Dolphin
(Aphid rumicis). The pupa is black with greyish
mottlings, while the female is deep greenish black in colour. This
insect commonly attacks the young shoots and tops of Broad
Remedy for Bean Aphids:
off the infected tops and burn them. For repeated attacks, spray the
Beans with a solution of soft soap and quassia.
Pests and the Pea-Siphon Aphid
pisi, Kalt).—Among the aphides
peculiar to vegetables this is one of the most common.
The Pea Siphon-Aphid can
be either greenish-winged or green-tinted wingless female,
the young are produced, not
from eggs, but alive and developed. This insect is occasionally very
destructive to Pea crops.
Pests and the Woolly Aphid
or Woolly Aphid, are garden pests
appearing first on trees
grafted on dwarfing stocks. Aphids rapidly increase and healthy trees
become infested, and
unless checked an orchard is quickly ruined.
Natural Remedy for Woolly
Fruit trees should be
examined periodically for these garden pests, and
immediately the woolly spots are detected small tainted boughs should
pruned away, and from the mainstems and large branches diseased spots
can be cut off. There is no cheaper remedy equal
to soft soap for smothering American Blight in the crannies of the
The soap may be rubbed into the diseased spots, or as a wash it can be
brushed into the boughs.
lanigera) are garden pests that are deep purplish brown
well-known bluish white cottony material naturally exudes from them.
Garden Pests and the Cabbage Root Fly
cabbage root fly
all bassicas, including calabrese,
broccoli, turnips and swedes. Seedlings and transplants are
particularly vulnerable. Legless maggots eat or bore into the
Remedy for Cabbage Root Fly:
If you have a cabbage
root fly problem make small discs of
cardboard of about 10 cm in diameter and cut a straight line from the
outer edge to the center of the circle and fit it as a collar around
Garden Pests and the Carrot Fly
Picture Courtesy of Rasbak
The Carrot Fly
(Psila rosae), with its larva, pupa, and
insect, is illustrated left. The ochreous shining
larvae live upon the tap-roots of the carrot, and by eating into them
cause them to rot.
In colour the body of the
fly is an intensely dark
greenish black, with a rusty ochreous head. The presence of the larvae
the root is made known by the change in the color of the leaves from
green to yellow, and the attacked plants should be promptly forked
out and burned. When
growing carrots It
is good to dig
ground in autumn, so that the earth may be exposed
to the frosts of winter and the pupae get the attention of the
Remedy for Carrot Fly: Carrot flies
soot or wood
ash and probably
the best organic way to get rid of pests is to soak the bed
once a week with
a thin mixture of wood ashes and water using a
can. A copious watering when
the task is ended will firm the earth round the remaining roots, and
prevent the fly from easily getting down to deposit eggs.
Carrots, celery and
often attacked by the larva of a
(Depressaria cicutella), which spins webs for
security while feeding,
and sometimes works havoc among the foliage. A simple remedy is to
the caterpillars from the leaves of the plants, when they can be
destroyed by the use of lime.
Garden Pests and the Celery Fly
apparent blisters in Celery
leaves are spots
deficient of leaf-green, which the larva of the Celery Fly has eaten.
Dusting newly-planted celery with soot may do something to
prevent the fly from laying its eggs. When the
grub has made a home, it should be crushed by pinching the leaf between
the finger and thumb, or the damaged portions of the leaves
cut out and burned.
In doing this it must
always be remembered that the
leaves are as much needed by the plant as the roots, and every leaf
removed tends to diminish the strength of the plant. This fly is also
destructive to the leaves of parsnips, and is named onopordinis
its habit of frequenting the Cotton Thistle (Onopordon
larva is white to very pale green, the fly is shining tawny. An
Ichneumon Fly detects the larva of the Celery Fly in the Celery and
Parsnip leaves, and lays its eggs in the body of the larva. These
parasites, named Alysia apii, assist in reducing
the numbers of the
Remedy for Celery Fly:
All Celery refuse should
be destroyed by fire. Infested ground
suitable, be trenched, bringing the subsoil to the surface and burying
the top soil containing the pupae. Frequent rough digging and the
exposure of fresh surfaces to be searched by birds will also do
something to abate the number of this pest.
Garden Pests and the Onion Fly
are frequently attacked
by the larvae of the Onion
Fly, and in some instances the entire crop is destroyed. The onion fly
lays six to eight eggs on an
Onion plant, generally just above the ground. These eggs hatch in from
five to seven days, according to the temperature, and
once burrow into the Onion. The result is soon visible in the
discoloration of the leaves which turn yellow and begin to decay.
Several generations of the insect, the scientific name of which is
Phorbia cepetorum, appear in the course of a single
season. A close
ally is the Cabbage Root Fly (P.
destroyer of Cabbage
Remedy for Onion Fly:
Among the numerous methods of preventing attack and of
grubs the following are worth attention:—
Where this pest proves
very troublesome you may need to
your Onion growing to new ground until the infested land has been
the pupae. Instead of throwing this Onion material on the compost
heap which encourages the fly a home for its eggs, every scrap should
the preparation of an Onion bed approaches completion, powdered lime
well mixed with soot, in the proportion of two buckets of the former to
one of the latter, may be sown evenly over the surface and
Earthing up the Onions has
also proved to be effective. The objection to
this procedure is the probability of enlarged necks which are not
wanted. An emulsion, composed of one pint of oil, one pound of
soap mixed with ten gallons of water, thoroughly mixed and sprayed over
the young plants in a fine mist, is a valuable
preventive. The dose may be repeated after rainfall, if necessary. The
quantities mentioned are for a small plot only.
to the maggots, disagreeable to the fly, and beneficial to the young
plants. The suds should be sprayed over the bed from a watering can on
the first appearance of a yellow color in the grass.
One oddity that hasn't
been mentioned is that transplanted Onions are very seldom
touched by grub. The practice of raising seedlings under glass
January or February, and planting out in open beds in April, offers the
advantage of a long season of growth combined with comparative immunity
from attack by the Onion Fly.
Garden Pests and the Turnip Fly
or Turnip Flea, is
well known to the gardener, and is the most
troublesome of all the flying garden pests, and one which is most
difficult to cope with, not only because of its general spreading
numbers, but because it produces a succession of broods throughout the
summer, and is therefore always in force, ready to devour the crop
immediately it appears.
The so-called 'Fly' is a
small beetle named
Haltica (Phyllotreta) nemorum, strongly made, and
The larvae are not to be feared, except that, of course, they in due
become beetles. In the perfect state this winged, jumping insect makes
havoc of the rising plant of Turnips, but the crop is only in danger
while in the seed-leaf stage.
It is in the spring and
chiefly that the ravages of these insects cause surprise, for they
awaken from their winter hibernation active and hungry, and have a
appetite for almost any cruciferous plant. As a result we see the
Radishes pierced by them, and all such weeds as Charlock, Cuckoo
Hedge Garlic, and Water Cress serve them for food until the Turnip
are on the move, when they will travel miles, even against the wind, to
wreck the farmer's hopes.
districts is equally troublesome, if not more so. Whole Cabbages may be
destroyed by this pest, and even Hops are often ruined by it.
Preventive and remedial
measures that can easily be carried
out in a
garden may be impracticable on a farm. We leave the choice up
always to drill Turnip seed; broadcasting seems to invite the Fly—at
all events, a drilled crop is generally safer.
Rolling an infested plant disturbs and weakens the insects and
stimulates the young plant.
Remedy for Cabbage Fly/Flea:
The sprinkling of slaked
lime over the seedlings is at once a
an efficient process, and possesses the additional advantage of being
beneficial to the plant. We are aware that it does not always succeed,
but we are inclined to attribute the failure to a bad quality of the
lime, or a careless method of employing it.
There should be enough
on to make the plants white, and they will be none the worse for the
whitening. Dustings of fine ashes or soot are scarcely less effective,
but salt must not be used, for it injures the plants and does not hurt
All such dustings should
be done in the early morning,
the plants are wet with dew. To apply a dusting at midday, when the sun
is shining, is a waste of time. Nets and sticking boards have been
found effectual, and yet such things are rarely used.
A board thickly
covered with fresh white paint, drawn over the plot on a still, sunny
soon becomes a black board by the myriads of Halticas
that jump at and
remain attached to it, the victims of their extravagant love of
Finally, these garden
need a dry air and some degree of warmth for its health and happiness.
Many kinds of larvae need moisture, but no winged insect can stand
moisture long, and this is a clue to getting rid of Turnip
the simple process of spraying the plant three or four times a day,
until it is out of the seed-leaf, and the danger is over, it is
in the garden to wash out the Haltica; and any kind
of insecticide or
flavouring, such as quassia, may be mixed with the water to make
plants distasteful to the insects.
Garden Pests and the Crane Fly
Daddy Longlegs, or Crane
in its perfect form of a fly (Tipula
oleracea) does no harm, but the grubs, known by the familiar
'leather-jackets' owing to the toughness
of their skins, are terribly
During late summer and
autumn the female fly deposits its
eggs in large numbers in turf, in garden soil and amongst garden
The eggs are hatched in a fortnight or so and the dark grubs lie in the
ground through the winter, inflicting their maximum, amount of injury
young crops in spring and early summer.
Where song birds are
scarce the Crane Fly grub is capable of utterly destroying grass and of
the Kitchen Garden; but cultivation, aided by the robins, thrushes,
nightingales, and other birds, will keep the insect within bounds, even
after a hot summer favorable to its increase.
Where these garden pests
to exist, the regular use of
the hoe is recommended, because when you disturb the soil
the grubs are exposed to the sharp eye of the robin and other feathered
Garden Pests and the Root-Knot Eelworm
of the worst pests when growing
cucumbers and it manifests
itself by the presence of minute warts or
nodosities, chiefly on the rootlets. These warts, which are caused by
the action of many small thread-like worms named Heterodera
radicicola, ranging from the size of a pin's head to that of
when they are present in large numbers the total failure of the
crop is the invariable result.
The eelworms are probably
introduced to the cucumbers in infected water. Each worm is about
of an inch in length and is at first coiled up inside a transparent
At maturity the eggs crack open, and the worms on emerging bore into
most tender rootlets, and lay their eggs there. These eggs speedily
hatch inside the plant and new eelworms are produced, which
the rootlets in every direction.
These Heterodera are by no means peculiar
to the Cucumber; they attack
the roots of Tomatoes and Melons, and the roots, stems, and foliage of
many other plants.
Remedy for Root-Knot Eelworm:
Immediately symptoms of
these garden pests are apparent from the wilting
foliage and stems, all infected plants should be removed and burned.
soil must also be cleared of the pests by turning it over and
exposing them to the birds. When the soil has been well
cleansed, fresh compost should be used, to which
addition of lime and soot, mixed with the soil, will be beneficial.
Garden Pests and the Mealy Bug
plague is by no means
confined to plants under glass.
Bug may be known by its mealy, floury, or cottony appearance. It has a
great fancy for Grape vines.
Natural Remedy for Mealy Bug:
One of the best remedies
in getting rid of mealy bug is by washing the plants with a with a
brush and soft soap. Our
illustration on the left shows a significantly enlarged mealy bug on
the stem of a plant.
Garden Pests and Red Spider Mites
The scientific name of
the Red Spider Mite is Tetranychus
illustration above shows a two spotted spider mite greatly
Natural Remedy for Red Spider
do not like humid and moist conditions.Therefore, the solution to
getting rid of these small garden pests is spraying. Spraying promotes
a moist atmosphere, and is unfavouable to the Red
Spider, which thrives best in heat and dryness.
Melons and Cucumbers may
clear of Spider by means of spraying only; but when Melons are
ripening they must be kept rather dry, and it is very difficult indeed
to finish a crop without having the plants attacked by Red
Garden Pests and Scale
very common species, found on many
kinds plants, is the Lecanium hibernaculorum.
Besides this species there is the L.
filicum of Ferns, the L. hemisphoericum
of Dracanas, the L.
rotundum of the Peach, and the common L. hesperidum,
Bug, which is one of the flat species, and it spreads to a great
The Scale insect sucks the
sap from plants, and in some
instances the ground beneath the foliage is wet and soddened by the
Remedy for Scale:
A homemade mustard spray,
sprayed on the plants is
considered to be a good remedy for Scale. It is, however, advisable (as
in other remedies) to test this on a small number of plants at
near relative, a large brown Coccus, infests
pomaceous trees, and is
especially partial to the Pyracantha, which it often kills outright.
Scale of the Vine is Pulvinaria or Coccus
with soap and water, and the destruction of each separate Scale as soon
as seen, can be recommended for getting rid of this pest.
Garden Pests and Thrips
may multiply in numbers before being
discovered by the novice, for their minute size and their habit make
them difficult to see and therefore makes these difficult garden pests
to detect. But the black deposit they make shows their
existence to the experienced eye, and the sad condition of the
plants they have attacked would soon draw your attention if there were
deposit to tell the tale.
The Indian Azaleas are apt
to be attacked by
Thrips, as the Grape-vine is by Scale,
the Pineapple by Mealy Bug, and
the Rose by Green Aphid.
Remedy for Thrips:
Humidity is a powerful
as is also the promotion of vigorous growth by a plentiful supply of
water to the roots of the plants; in fact, starvation and a dry, hot
will soon bring an attack of Thrips.
Generally speaking, the
remedy is using tobacco water and a solution of soft
soap, together or separately, if carefully applied, speedily make an
of these troublesome garden pests.
A special preparation may
be made as follows to get rid of these garden pests:
Take six pounds of soft soap, and dissolve in twelve
add half a gallon of strong tobacco water, and dip the plants in the
mixture. Before they become dry, dip again in pure rainwater to remove
the mixture. If too large to dip, apply the mixture with a spraygun,
and in the course of a quarter of an hour or so spray with pure
Garden Pests and Caterpillars
cannot often be treated in a
wholesale way without injury
to the plant. Hence it is usual to rely on hand-picking, and, tedious
this may be, a little perseverance will accomplish wonders.
a fruit garden, literally hideous with clusters of Caterpillars in
spring, completely cleared by a few days' steady work, costing little,
and only needing to be conducted so that in removing these
common garden pests
there should be no harm done to the crops. In the same way the
Gooseberry grub should be disposed of.
Precautions cannot be
against Caterpillars, but the careful cultivator will in good time look
for patches of eggs and clusters of young Caterpillars on the under
sides of leaves, and will carefully nip off the leaves on which the
colonies are feeding, and make an end of them. These garden pests
raked in rank and file, but must be taken in detail, as in guerilla
Garden Pests and Earwigs
are the dread
of the florist, for
they spoil his best Dahlias
and Hollyhocks, and are also partial to Chrysanthemums.
They are readily
trapped, as they like to go up to a high, dry, dark retreat; hence a
of dry moss in a small flower-pot, inverted on a stake, will entice
into your hands; and if you are determined to keep down
Earwigs, this is the way to go, though, perhaps, not easy, because it
must be followed up
morning and evening from the beginning of June onwards.
of the Bean make good traps, as indeed do hollow stems of any kind, for
Earwigs love to creep into close, dark shelters after their nocturnal
meal. Unfortunately, they use their wings
freely, and so travel from garden to garden, looking for
and pastures new.'
Garden Pests and Slugs
are serious plagues to the gardener,
and they sometimes appear
in large numbers so suddenly as to suggest the idea that the little
Slugs have come down in showers.
Young crops are especially
liable to be damaged by these common pests, and it is not easy, even in
to keep them down. Constant attention is necessary, particularly in wet
seasons. But here, as in the case of many other kinds of pests, means
may be adopted that will accomplish the double purpose of destroying
plague and benefiting the land; for lime, salt and soot are certain
Slug-killers, and will usually pay dividends
by enriching the soil at the same time.
Remedy for Slugs:
slightly touched by lime or salt has the power of throwing it off by
means of the slimy exudation with which the creature is endowed. But if
a second application is made to the slug, death will follow.
Land made ready for sowing
may be pretty well cleared of Slugs by
broadcasting it with salt.
destroyers are only
effective in fine weather. In rainy seasons, or when a crop is rising,
it is necessary to resort to trapping, and many kinds of vegetable
refuse make tempting baits for slugs.
Pieces of orange peel,
placed, are soon covered with slugs, especially in the winter
during intervals of frost. Cabbage leaves, sliced turnips and potatoes,
or almost any waste vegetable may be used. The traps should be
about at dusk, and be gathered up in the morning, and buried in pits,
destroyed by fire.
Garden Pests and Snails
their methods of attacking
garden vegetation, and in the
extent of damage they cause. Snails may be placed in the same category
During the day the Snail
usually remains in hiding, emerging
from rockeries and creeper-covered walls in the evening or after a
shower of rain.
Unfortunately, they can do
a lot of damage.
Remedy for Snails:
They may be trapped by
of the methods suggested for
Slugs, and preference should be given to the use of Cabbage leaves or
even bowls buried in the ground filled with beer.
One can also protect young
plants by giving them heavy
dressings of lime or soot. Hand picking is the surest means of dealing
with them, and in the winter months large numbers may be collected from
among box edgings, the base of ivy-covered walls and similar shelters.
Birds, especially thrushes, show a marked partiality for Snails.
Garden Pests and Wasps
are a terrible scourge in some
gardens. They spoil a large
quantity of fruit, and jeopardize the remainder by forcing the harvest
before the crops are ready for gathering.
Natural Remedy for Wasps:
A simple and effective
method of destroying these pests
is to pour
a small quantity of ale mixed with sugar into glass jars and suspend
them from branches of Pear or Plum trees. The jars must be emptied
every few days and the liquid renewed.
This is a very effective
wasp trap and one that definitely reduces
their numbers in the orchard.
Garden Pests and Wireworms
Wireworm is the
most persistent and
destructive of all the ground garden pests. There are fully a dozen
species of beetles the larvae of which
are known as 'Wireworms,'
of these the 'Spring-Jacks,'
E. ruficaudis—are the most prevalent.
beetle deposits her
eggs in the earth in the height of the summer, and in due time the
emerge and commence their mischief.
These worms have a tenure
three to five years in their subterranean homes, during which time they
feed voraciously, and are not very particular as to what they eat.
muscular power allows them to burrow, and they are well
protected by their horny jackets.
When their term of feeding
completed, they descend to a considerable depth and change into the
chrysalis state, they emerge as jumping beetles in the
course of July and August, a certain proportion remaining in the ground
to complete their final change in spring. Their power of destruction is
then at an end. They resort to flowers, lead a merry life for a short
time, and when they pass away leave plenty of eggs to continue the race
For practical purposes the
Wireworm may be regarded as
kind of soil and consuming every kind of crop. The crops it is
partial to are Grass, Potatoes, Turnips, and the juicy stems of all
kinds of cereals.
Remedy for Wireworms:
The larvae may be trapped
by burying in the ground
pieces of Potato, or better still thick slices of Beetroot or 3 inches
of old Kale below the ground in spring; the spots
to be marked, and the traps examined every few days, when the Wireworms
can be destroyed.
Soot is a
well-known remedy, and by using it the crops also benefit.
Garden Pests and Woodlice
are very destructive but
caught, and they may be
completely eradicated by perseverance.
Natural Remedy for Woodlice:
When a frame or pit is
they can be destroyed wholesale by pouring boiling water down next the
brickwork or the woodwork in the middle of the day.
If this doesn't work then
you will have to resort to trapping.
with Earwigs, they love dryness, darkness, and a snug retreat; but
a mere home suffices for Earwigs, a home with food is demanded by
Take a thumb pot, quite
dry and clean. In it place a
slice of Potato or Apple, fill up with dry moss, and turn the whole
thing over on a bed in a frame or pit. Thus you have devised a
trap, and next morning you may knock the pests out of it
into a vessel
full of hot water, or adopt any other mode of killing that may be
convenient. Fifty traps may be prepared no time at all; and those
who are determined to get rid of Woodlice may soon make an end of them.
Garden Pests in Rats and Mice
Rats and Mice
are huge garden
pests and can destroy a home vegetable garden very swiftly. We lost
almost our whole produce this season to mice and rats who ate the
sweetcorn, green tomatoes, beans, cucumbers and almost all our
butternuts as a result of their presence.
Remedy for Rats and Mice:
Rat traps are efficient if
you know what to bait it with, but sometimes no matter
how hard you try, they evade being caught. Using a humane
rat trap, may be the answer.
keep down rats and mice effectively one has to always be one step ahead
of mice and rats as they are very smart and soon get to know how to
avoid getting caught.
Generally speaking, you
need to stop up
their homes making sure they can't get out, and for those that are
still about the only lasting solution is to know where to put
traps and poison for the vermin. A good fox-terrier
will keep a large garden
from Rats and Mice.
Forget about German
Shepherds! We have two and
before we finally erradicated the mice, the dogs would sit and
watch the mice eat from their food bowls at night!
Garden Pests and Homemade Fruit Fly Traps.
pests can readily be trapped by using homemade insect
traps in the
fruit trees, filling it with beer, for example, covering the jar with
paper, and then piercing a small hole into the top of the paper.
Another way is to take 2 plastic coldrink bottles, and together they
make a great trap.
Cut the top off one of
the bottles, and then cut out
a circle in the second bottle on the side of the bottle in the top
third, big enough to receive the screw-top threaded section
the first bottle.
Push it into the circle so that the serated area now
becomes a funnel. Pour your mixture through the funnel making sure that
the first bottle has remained capped.
Here are some more Insect
Images of Garden Pests and Bugs for Identification
|Alfalfa Plant Bug
|Cabbage Looper Larvae
||Cabbage White Butterfly
|Citrus Root Weevil
||Codling Moth Caterpillar
|Colorado Potato Beetle
|Cotton Boll Weevil
||Cotton Boll Worm
||Gypsy Moth Caterpillar
||Mexican Fruit Flies
||Tarnished Plant Bug
|Two Spotted Spider Mite
more information of Pests and Diseases of Fruit Trees
which may be of
interest to those of you with orchards and homesteads, or who grow
fruit in your own backyard.
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